“Very cold! Taynton Bowl closed,” the sign reads as I unload from Panorama Mountain Resort’s Summit Chair.
I’ve been psyching myself up for this for days, preparing to ski my advanced-but-not-expert butt into Taunton Bowl’s 750-acre powder playground, best known for its steeps, deeps, and perfect fall lines. I’m told all those who ski here end up head over heels (in love, that is, not down the hill – although both are possible).
Smiling patrollers are waiting, defrosting their fingers on coffees and answering questions.
“Will it open today?” Yes, it’s currently -25 degrees, they’re just waiting for it to warm up a bit.
“Why is that?” It’s too dangerous if someone has to wait for a rescue. Ooft.
“Thanks guys,” I say. “See you soon,” one winks.
To be fair, despite the glorious sunshine, today is frigid. This is Interior BC in peak winter, 10 hours by car from the mild coastal temperatures of Vancouver (the quickest way here is to fly to Calgary Airport, hire a car, and enjoy 3.5 hours of mind-boggling views as the bitumen snakes its way around the mountains).
I escape the chill at Summit Hut, the cosy restaurant right beside the chair, with breaky. The irresistible combination of fried egg, bacon, sauteed onion and mayo on sourdough is exactly the kind of fuel my internal furnace needs to tackle some runs. I get some blood flowing in the glades beside the Summit Chair, before taking the View of 1000 Peaks – a grippy groomer with carvalicious turns – to the base.
By the time I make it back to the top, the sign is gone. Deep breath. It’s time.
There are three ways into Taynton Bowl. You can drop in right behind the hut, but obviously the closest run is always the most heavily tracked. You can hike up the trail – today, the patrollers suggest walking about halfway along the rim to a double-black diamond called C-Spine. Or you can jump into one of the resort’s two MonsterX snowcats, nicknamed Jekyll and Hyde, and venture all the way to the end.
One of the things that make this resort so special (hint: it’s in the name) is its extraordinary views. The resort perches on the side of a narrow valley, surrounded by peaks that appear so close you feel you could touch them – until you realise their colossal size has completely distorted your perspective. Since today is picture perfect, I hit the trail on foot, looking for the friendliest spot to drop over the edge.
Another is the vertical. It’s a 1300m drop from top to bottom, meaning the runs are gloriously long, whether you’re cruising the corduroy or crushing a double-black diamond at the bowl. As I peer over the lip of Taynton Bowl, I spy soft bumps and friendly looking trees in every direction, so I pick a line and take the plunge.
The final important detail is there’s no-one here. A study from 2019 found Panorama Mountain Resort offered the most space per skier of the top 100 ski resorts in the world. Today (Sunday), I’ve skied straight onto every single lift and I haven’t dodged a single person. When I pause about half way to catch my breath, I realise I can only see two other skiers – so far away they appear ant-sized – further along the rim.
So what’s the snow like? It’s been a few weeks since the last dump, but the protection of the bowl, cold temperatures, a general lack of traffic, and a fresh centimetre here and there means it’s held up well. Put simply, this run is perfect: steep at the start, mellowing towards the bottom, blissful turns throughout.
And by the time I get to the bottom (my own C-Spine thankfully intact), it’s time for apres.
My first stop is a glass of glühwein at Elkhorn Cabin. Second, a quick pause to drop my skis at The Approach, a recently refurbished hotel looking straight at the Mile 1 Express chairlift, before a plate of sinful ravioli with brown butter and parmesan next door at Alto Kitchen and Bar. And third, a hot soak.
Hot pools are another reason Panorama is noteworthy. Steam rises from three enticing options in the Upper Village: a heated swimming pool (32 degrees Celsius) and two hot tubs (36 and 38 degrees respectively). I plonk myself straight into the hottest one and feel the tension melt from my body.
I’m officially head over heels (in love) with this wildly underrated mountain.
*The writer visited as a guest of Panorama Mountain Resort.
