They told me it was the birthplace of skiing. But I didn’t fully understand that until I was standing on the side of a run in the Austrian ski resort of Lech, 1450m above sea level, surrounded by nothing but mountain peaks and the fastest skiers and snowboarders I’d ever seen.
“Everyone’s so zoomy,” I said to my ski guide, but he didn’t seem surprised.
“It’s the Austrian way,” he shrugged. “Racing’s in our blood.”
And so it became obvious why this country is such a bucket-list destination for skiers and snowboarders. The Austrians live and breathe snow sports. On the slopes here, you’re just as likely to be overtaken by a toddler as you are by a 93-year-old. And both of them will probably have perfect form that puts yours to shame.
I skied three different areas in the pursuit of finding the perfect one for every type of skier; and you know what, I think I found something for everyone.
If you want tradition with a side of luxe and large… choose LECH
Lech is tucked right into the heart of the Arlberg mountains, known as the ‘cradle’ of alpine skiing. When tourism first became fashionable in the 19th century, this is where people came for their holidays. And they still come, year after year; seventy per cent of tourists here are return tourists, and you understand why as soon as you arrive.
The town is the perfect mix of modern and heritage, with teeny-tiny alpine churches scattered across the villages, and summit crosses – originally placed at the top of mountains by monks in the middle ages to mark safe passage – still visible from the runs. You’ll enjoy fondue in 600-year-old restaurants and stop by slopeside museums; the one in Lech still has the original stone floor kitchen from the 16th century.
You’ll also go past the same chairlift where that Bridget Jones ski scene from the second movie was filmed, walk down the very same streets where Princess Diana holidayed in the 90s, après with the best of the champagne towers, check out incredible art installations and shop for new gear in boujee ski gear department stores that rival Harrods (featuring in-store bar and all alongside the Moonboots).
There’s bucketloads of charm to be found, with 90% of the hotels run by families who have been perfecting hospitality for generations. Plus no less than 305km of ski runs, with flawless infrastructure and a lift pass cap to ensure you actually ski, not queue; a 1km toboggan run, open until 9pm every night; and a real focus on sustainability. Check out the car-free village of Oberlech to have your mind blown by the secret underground tunnels that link all of the hotels.
WHERE TO STAY: Hotel Gotthard. Cosy and comfortable yet modern, and what ski dreams are made of with their spa, sauna and indoor pool facilities. Not to mention about a 2-minute walk to the slopes.
If you want culture and variety… choose INNSBRUCK
You’ll see a little logo plastered all over the city of Innsbruck: it’s a university student on a bicycle, with a backpack and a pair of skis balanced on their back as they ride along. And this sums up this small city perfectly. It’s a place where people pop out from work or study during their lunch break and take a quick gondola ride to the top of town, where they’ll ski for an hour before coming back down again. It’s not unusual to see someone wearing ski boots in the city square right outside H&M, strolling back to their desk.
If you like variety, Innsbruck is your playground. With twelve ski areas accessible via one SKI plus CITY pass, you’ve got 265 km of pistes and 108 lifts to explore. I liked going to dinner at night and eavesdropping on people’s conversations about where to go the next day; locals swear by the Stubaier Glacier, which is high, wide and reliably snowy, whereas Aussies are tempted towards sunny Kuhtai, Austria’s highest alpine World Cup resort and a favourite for ski school and slopeside après vibes. If you don’t have a car, they’re all accessible with public transport, because European efficiency of course.
And then there’s the cultural element. Where else can you ski in the morning and head to a palace in the afternoon, then round out the day with an Austrian concert showcasing the best of traditional yodelling? Or check out the city’s ski jump, which has been used for two Winter Olympics and seems to tower over the town? Or wander the Court Church (a work of art, with 28 bronze statues from the 1500s), Europe’s highest zoo, museums, concerts, or even Swarovski Crystal World which has to be seen to be believed (and yes, I wish I dragged my toddler all the way there, because it has the coolest indoor playground I’ve seen anywhere in the world).
The SKI plus CITY pass is fab in that it gets you into all of the above on the one pass. Plus it’s great value: around €154 (around AU$250 at time of writing) for two days of skiing plus 23 cultural attractions.
WHERE TO STAY: Hotel Nala. Right in the heart of town, convenient and metropolitan. And one of the best breakfast buffets I’ve ever seen, with everything from tiramisu and bruschetta to gummy bears available.
If you want to get right off the beaten track… choose LIENZ
Lienz is such a quiet achiever that even many Austrians don’t know about it, or haven’t skied there; which is unexpected, because it’s blissfully uncrowded and gorgeous. If you want a relaxed, fun and under-the-radar trip, where you’re almost guaranteed to not hear another Australian accent, this is the place for you.
In the local Zettersfeld ski area, known as the “sun terrace” for how perfectly positioned it is for soaking up the sun’s rays, you’ll have more space than you know what to do with. But the vibes are still there, with on-mountain DJs and a weekly ski race for the guests of the hotels. It’s also worth taking the time, while here, to ski the Italian Dolomites: our drive to Cortina d’Ampezzo took just over an hour and was worth every minute.
The city of Lienz is where you can find a schnitzel the size of your upper body for €17 (AU$28), alongside off-mountain adventures that the locals – the East Tirolians – thrive on. Ice bathing is one of them, and it’s the most authentic kind possible, with opportunities to get right into frozen lakes under strict guidance from breathwork experts. Or there’s ice climbing in Eispark Osttirol, one of Europe’s largest artificial ice climbing parks, and which feels much like a frozen cathedral; towering blue-white ice walls, the quiet focus of climbers, the only noise being the odd falling of ice shards.
You can balance the adrenaline with forest bathing, which is a mindfulness walk and meditation through the fragrant woodlands of the area, and the most restorative way to round out a busy trip.
WHERE TO STAY: Harry’s Home Hotel is a chain scattered across Europe, and their Lienz location is perfect for the weary traveller who needs a home away from home. The lobby and breakfast area is designed to be like a living room, only being up on the top floor and overlooking stunning mountains makes it feel like one of the nicest living rooms you’ll ever hang out in.
Quick tips for the newbie Austrian skier
If you want to feel like a local – or at least like the kind of chic European skier that comes to Austria for a holiday every year – here are my tips for settling straight in.
EAT: Spätzle. Some kind of cheese and pasta mix that is available in every on-mountain restaurant and perfect for a warm lunch. Every restaurant will claim that they have their own special recipe that is better than everyone else’s, so why not try them all just to be sure?
DRINK: Schiwasser (pronounced shee-water). This is what the trendy people seemed to be ordering. It’s a raspberry-flavoured, refreshing drink that’s good for hydrating mid-mountain before you descend into a haze of champagne at après.
WEAR: Nothing at all, if you’re enjoying the spa culture here. Like a Japanese onsen, only right across the other facilities too (especially the sauna).
LEARN:”Lebensgefühl”: it’s a term that encapsulates the Austrian way of living. There’s a joyfulness, a lightness of heart and a warmth that comes from their flawless hospitality and their passion for the things in life that really matter: ski lifts, schnapps and sun-drenched terraces.
Nat travelled as a guest of Austria Tourism.
