I’ve never truly got the hype about Whistler Blackcomb. Sure, it’s the biggest ski resort in North America (8,171 acres), it has 1600metres of vertical, 11 metres average snowfall and is a mere 90 minutes from downtown Vancouver on a truly stunning highway. I know about the steep terrain, the glaciers, the accessible backcountry and the village nightlife. But I’ve never really nailed it weather and snow wise and had yet to see Black Tusk in its full glory.
My first trip back in the day, it torrentially rained (and not just in the village) though to be fair I’ve been to many other resorts in those conditions too, so it’s not exclusive to Whistler, it was just poor timing.
Another visit I yard-saled it down a chute up by Spanky’s Ladder, I immediately went back up to do it again in fear if I didn’t I’d never ski a steep again, but I went back in to the hotel soon after my second conquer. Again, not the mountain’s fault, I blame my skis that magically crossed when they shouldn’t have.
Then there was the time I had vertigo in a white out on Blackcomb Glacier and kept falling up the mountain, it was then I decided I was just built for après in the purpose built pedestrian only village.
Of course I’d had great trips, some involved helicopters and cats on someone else’s dime (#privilegedskierproblem) and others for film festivals and food. Overall, though, I was more ski-journalist-jaded-meh with a fifty percent strike rate, than oh-my-god-cancel-my-return-flight.
It wasn’t until last week that I truly understood and got the hype about these two mountains, Whistler and Blackcomb and I’m not ashamed to say that boy, have I been wrong.
Turns out spring is the ideal time to hit up this iconic ski town. March is traditionally the month with the most snowfall so come April you’ll be skiing fun spring snow on a solid season long base, and in blue bird skies.
Of course it helped that I had the “voice of the Freeride World Tour”, Derek Foose, to guide me on day one thanks to the crew at Extremely Canadian (1000 out of 10 would recommend). Though I forgot to ask him to commentate as I feebly skied Harmony Bowl, now that would have been funny. Instead I threw some Oakley Meta sunglasses on Mr Foose and sent him off-piste to record, I’m six months post knee-surgery with strict instructions to say on piste (boring).
Lucky for me I had two full bluebird days in a row and when we hit the peak of Whistler in that first hour on day one, I literally had no idea where I was. Not because it looks like Europe with a thousand peaks that unfold for miles, but because I had never been at the summit in these pristine conditions.
What a view, what a mountain and what sensational terrain. Every-single-where-you-looked.
But what of lift lines? They disappear in spring. Some runs we had to ourselves, others a smattering of fellow skiers and boarders all feeling the new season vibes dressed in retro, in Hawaiian, in onesies, in cowgirl gear, in tutus. It’s hard not to smile in the face of such frivolity, especially when hitting up The Umbrella Bar for local DJ, Ace, on the decks.
Day two I took the 4.4kilometre long Peak 2 Peak, a true masterpiece of engineering connecting Whistler mountain to Blackcomb. It wasn’t my first time but this time the views were insane and if you can nab a seat in the cabin with the glass bottom view, do it.
I skied solo, I’ve never been a pack skier, one or two mates is enough for me. The rest are like white noise or a mosquito after dark in the bedroom, just annoying. I blame it on ADHD, but really I’m just people intolerant.
Exploring Blackcomb was easy, I joined a Mountain host tour and peeled off when I was ready, I stayed up high for spring corn fun and found my way to Crystal Hut for waffles, because have you even skied at Whistler Blackcomb if you haven’t had a Crystal Hut waffle? Locals were super friendly, offered advice on where to ski and how to get there, no attitude, just good old Canadian care.
Day three and I skied with “The First Man of the Mountain”, Aussie Whistler Blackcomb CEO, Belinda Trembath’s husband, Adam Seedsman. We hit up the Slush Cup, a true spring tradition, and laughed ourselves stupid at the guy in the chicken suit who lost his head when he stacked it at my feet. A mountain spring crowd, a near freezing purpose built pond, and skiers and boarders in dress up trying to skim across said pond is always a winner.
On my last day I woke to a spring snow storm. Yes, it was sleeting in the village, but I had a sneaky suspicion that would mean good snow up high. Many chose not to ski, fooled by the rain, which just meant more fresh tracks for those that did. Alighting the Whistler Village Gondola, I was met with winter style conditions and clear visibility down to Emerald Chair with trees providing good contrast. Primo.
I was already having a great week, but this sealed my change of Whistler mind.
This place rocks.
The village had free nightly DJs in the plaza and a great local crowd sharing the dance moves (and I do love to dance), restaurants serve up spring deals (a three course Taste of Spain menu at Bar Oso for $29 features a dish that is $50 alone on the a la carte menu), days are longer so no rush to get up or off the mountain and plenty of time to indulge in a Pangea Pod “Hair of the Dog” breakfast, all the retail is on sale and everyone’s smiling. What’s not to love?
When my legs were done, I went for a zipline with ZipTrek, launching myself along zip wires through the woods between both mountains for some added adrenaline and a true sense of freedom. After dark I tried out Vallea Lumina light show and cried tears of joy in the forest. In the early morning I could be found at Scandinave Spa (silence is mandatory) steaming in eucalypt aromas then diving into a cold plunge.
Perhaps the best surprise of all was and is the the Audain Art Museum, opened in 2016. The building itself is a piece of art, designed by John Patkau of Patkau Architects, with minimal fanfare and simple, soothing lines, corners, timber, glass and walkways. It’s warm and inviting and a place that encourages an exhale. The gallery houses both local and international exhibits and is well worth setting some time aside to explore it in its entirety on the walk from Whistler to Blackcomb.
I stayed at The Westin Resort & Spa right next to the Whistler Village Gondola, an easy three step stumble home from the village dining scene and the perfect location for skiing and pedestrian village convenience. Rooms here feature a full kitchenette set-up with family fridge, stove top, oven and microwave and there’s an outdoor pool, various hot tubs and a gym, plus a bar and retail with deals for guests.
To be honest, I could not fault The Westin service or the team, not even a smidgeon, and I tried. Of course they were all Australian and genuinely delighted to be living their best mountain adventure lives, whether their first season or their tenth. If you’re wondering where Australia’s good service went to, it’s here.
Oh, and I may or may not have cancelled my return flight.
*Rachael Oakes-Ash was a guest of Tourism Whistler. Feature image: Whistler Blackcomb. Photo credit: Destination BC/Ben Girardi
